Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
